Riung 17 Islands Guide: A Hidden Paradise on Flores' North Coast

Picture water as clear as glass, small white-sand islands and hardly another tourist boat in sight. That is Riung — the answer for groups who want to feel what Labuan Bajo was like ten years ago, before it became one of Indonesia's flagship destinations.

Riung lies on the north coast of Flores in Ngada Regency. Its waters are protected as the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park (Taman Wisata Alam Laut 17 Pulau Riung). There are actually more than seventeen islands; the number 17 was chosen to honour Indonesia's Independence Day, 17 August. Because it sits away from the main Trans-Flores road, Riung remains quiet and feels very local.

Riung at a glance

Getting from Bajawa to Riung

From Bajawa the bus heads north across the Soa plateau — where you can stop at the Mengeruda hot springs — then through dry hills before reaching the coast. The road is paved but narrow and winding in places. Our team always checks the latest road conditions before departure, especially after rain.

Plan to arrive around midday so the afternoon is free for resting or watching the sunset from the pier.

Ontoloe: the island of flying foxes

Ontoloe Island is one of the most memorable experiences in Riung. This mangrove-covered island is home to thousands of flying foxes (large fruit bats). During the day they hang from the trees; when the boat approaches and makes a little noise, the sky suddenly fills with black wings circling over the island.

The most dramatic moment comes around dusk, when the colony flies off towards mainland Flores to feed. If you want to see it, ask the boatman to schedule Ontoloe at the end of your tour.

Rutong Island and the white-sand islands

Rutong Island has a gently sloping white-sand beach with a small hill behind it. From the top you can see the whole cluster of Riung's islands — a great spot for a group photo. The water near the shore is shallow and calm, ideal for guests who are not confident swimmers.

Other islands often visited include Pulau Tiga, Pulau Bampa and Pulau Kolong. Each has its own character: some are better for snorkelling, others for lunch in the shade of a tree.

Snorkelling in Riung

Reefs at several spots in Riung are still healthy, with colourful reef fish, starfish and the occasional turtle. Visibility is usually best in the morning. Snorkel gear can be rented in Riung, but for large groups it is best booked a day ahead.

Please protect the reef: do not stand on or touch coral, and use reef-friendly sunscreen.

How to organise island hopping for a group

Island-hopping boats in Riung are wooden boats owned by fishermen and local operators. Each boat carries a limited number of people, so a group of 30 usually needs several boats. Things to prepare:

1. Book boats a day in advance through your guesthouse or our team.
2. Agree on the route and return time, for example 8 am–3 pm with 3–4 islands.
3. Make sure there is a life jacket for every passenger.
4. Bring lunch or ask the operator to grill fish on one of the islands.
5. Park entrance fees are paid separately.

Sample Riung itinerary for groups

Day 1: Bajawa → Riung

1. 8:00 am — depart Bajawa
2. 9:00 am — stop at Mengeruda hot springs in Soa
3. 12:00 pm — arrive in Riung, lunch
4. 3:00 pm — rest, late afternoon at the pier

Day 2: island hopping, then back to the Trans-Flores road

1. 7:30 am — board the boats at Riung pier
2. 8:30 am — snorkelling and Rutong Island
3. 12:00 pm — lunch on an island
4. 2:00 pm — Ontoloe Island
5. 3:30 pm — back to the pier; the bus continues to Bajawa or towards Ende

Riung also combines well with the eastern route to Kelimutu and Maumere.

How much does a bus to Riung cost?

Riung is covered by our Flores overland rate of IDR 3,500,000 per day for the 33–35 seat medium bus, including driver and fuel. Adding Riung to a Bajawa route usually adds 1–2 travel days. Boats, snorkel gear and park fees are paid separately. See the full price list.

Tips for visiting Riung

• Mobile signal is limited on some islands. Share the schedule and meeting points before setting off.
• Bring enough cash. ATMs in Riung are limited.
• Expect simple accommodation. Riung is not a resort town; most places are homestays and small hotels, so a large group may need to split between two properties.
• Protect yourself from the sun. A hat, sunglasses and long sleeves help a lot on the boat.

Frequently asked questions